Please call as now at 800-762-1586 This Model has been discontinued

Error Code E-10: Checksum failure (the program’s code has a problem)

Error Code E-11: RAM failure (the problem’s memory/space has a problem)

Error Code E-12: Switch failure (the machine’s switches have short circuited)

Error Code E-13: Time failure (the machine’s time does not align with the on-board crystal)

Error Code E-20: Open probe (check for broken leads)

Error Code E-21: Reasonableness failure (check for any erratic temperature readings)

Error Code E-30: Over heating error

Error Code E-31: Heater burned out and machine emitting little or no heat (possibly need to replace that part)

Note: Error codes E-30 and E-31 both can be from dust buildup in the back panel or broken fans

Error Code E-40: NVRAM read failure (need to replace control board)

Error Code E-41: NVRAM write failure (need to replace control board)

 

Please call as now at 800-762-1586 This Model has been discontinued

 

Thank you -
~Shlomo Savyon
1-800-762-1586
Your Sterilizer expert

The most probable reason for this is usually a bad heater element, but at times it can be caused by a failed main blower or a damaged circuit board. Check to make sure that with the drawer removed and the unit turned on, that there is good air-flow in the chamber.
You can unplug the sterilizer, remove the back and check the ohms on the heater element.

Please call us now at 800-762-1586 This Model has been discontinued

 

 

Thank you -
~Shlomo Savyon
1-800-762-1586
Your Sterilizer expert

Q: We’ve recently noticed what seems to be “pitting” in the bottom surface of the above model that was installed in 6/06 (ser. # 68383). We have followed the appropriate water conditions closely and only use softened water with a pH of 8.1. The unit is grounded electrically and is not cleaned with abrasive pads or cleaners. Any information would be appreciated. Thank you.

A: Try using only vinegar or dish detergent for cleaning. Leave the door open when the autoclave isn’t in use. Empty and wipe down the machine at the end of the day. Confirm your grounding is secure.

Thank you -
~Shlomo Savyon
1-800-762-1586
Your Sterilizer expert

The 2 pressure switches on the sterilizer work as the sensors to control the power supplies to its heating elements. If the steam trap

(click HERE) is working properly, then you need to check these 2 pressure switches. If it isn’t, the steam trap will need to be replaced.

Another possibility is that the temperature gauge may be defective.

This machine control unit is pretty simple, so not too many factors are involved.

Also, remember that the Market Forge temperature setting is lower than a regular sterilizer. Its default temperature settings is 250F instead of 273F.

Thank you -
~Shlomo Savyon
1-800-762-1586
Your Sterilizer expert

The Market Forge chamber is made of aluminum, which is very soft and sensitive to oxygen. Usually after a complete clean, we can see that the chamber’s inside color will get gray after 1 or 2 cycles, but a continuous residue buildup is unlikely.

Because Market Forge sterilizer does not come with a water reservoir, we do not think that residue will result from something inside the machine beforehand.

What we can suggest you do is wash this chamber with water many times to make sure the chamber inside as clean as possible. After that, run some testing cycles again.

Thank you -
~Shlomo Savyon
1-800-762-1586
Your Sterilizer expert

Q: I saw a mention somewhere that sterilizers have a “high elevation accessory/component.” Does Market Forge supply this item?

A: To the best of our knowledge – Market Forge does not have this item for their sterilizers.

Thank you -
~Shlomo Savyon
1-800-762-1586
Your Sterilizer expert

If your sterilizer runs out of water during the cycle, causing steam to blow out, then the problem is most likely caused by the steam trap, which isn’t doing its job. In this case, my recommendation is to just replace the steam trap.

Thank you -
~Shlomo Savyon
1-800-762-1586
Your Sterilizer expert

Q: The sterilizer only reaches 13 psi. When it’s operating, I hear a switch or a valve open and close. This noise comes every 5 minutes during operation.

A: In most cases, the problem is from the steam trap, which opens too much. This will cause the sterilizer to have a hard time building and holding high pressure.

However, in this specific case, the problem might be caused by pressure switch, which is out of calibration. If the pressure switch is in good working condition, the problem may come from the contactors, which is controlled by the pressure switch. Through the contactor, the pressure switch can control the AC power supply to the heating elements. From the description, it sounds like the pressure switch is still working (but possibly not calibrated), because you can still hear a noise periodically. This noise comes from the contactor going ON/OFF.

Usually the 2 contactors work like this:

When the pressure reaches 13.0-13.5 PSI, the contactor for the outer banks of heating elements will turn OFF and stay OFF until the end of the cycle.

When the pressure reaches 15.5 PSI, then the contactor for the inside banks of heating elements will turn OFF. After the pressure goes down to 15.0 PSI, this contactor will turn ON again, so you can hear a noise periodically. For your case, this contactor is most likely not working, or the control signal for this contactor from the Pressure Switch is out of calibration.

Thank you -
~Shlomo Savyon
1-800-762-1586
Your Sterilizer expert

Q: My company has been asked to install a Market Forge STM-E sterilizer. I am looking at a Market Forge 8-1/2″ x 11″ sheet listed as 17-0099-3 for a type “C” with temperature recorder. Per the top view of the sterilizer, what is item “E”? It is not listed as part of the required connections but a site visit revealed a 1/2″ FPT connection.

A: “E” is where the chart recorder connects and the unit’s safety valve is located.

Thank you -
~Shlomo Savyon
1-800-762-1586
Your Sterilizer expert

Q: We have a Market Forge STM-E. When we try to run a cycle, the sterilizer works normally until temperature is reached. Then the low water indicator light comes on and the sterilizer shuts off. After the temperature and pressure go down the chamber still is full of water and we can usually reset using the button. However, it happens again when we try to run it. At first the problem was intermittent, and we could sometimes run a complete cycle, but now it’s doing it every time. Sometimes we can’t even reset it and have to wait until it is significantly cooled down before the reset button will work. How do we fix this?

A: The reason this is happening is because the low water cutoff is faulty. To fix it, you just have to replace that part.Click HERE

Thank you -
~Shlomo Savyon
1-800-762-1586
Your Sterilizer expert

 

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