Q: I bought this steamer 7 months ago, and now the gasket rubber has been totally destroyed. Should we need to replace it?

A: What are you cleaning the gasket with? And are you leaving the door a little open when not in use? These problems can cause the gasket rubber to be destroyed. Replace the gasket as soon as possible. Click HERE to buy it immediately.

Thank you -
~Shlomo Savyon
1-800-762-1586
Your Sterilizer expert

Q. I have a question about our sterilmatic autoclave. This is the third one I’ve used and this one has a strange characteristic. We can’t run the autoclave twice in a row without draining and refilling the chamber. Whenever we simply add water to it after a previous run it heats up, comes up to pressure and then the low level water light comes on and stops the unit. We have let it come back to room pressure, drain it and refill with cold water. Any idea what might cause this and fix the problem? Should we be able to do multiple runs once the water is hot and just top off the level in the chamber?

A: It sounds like the low water cut off is getting weak. Is there scale build up in the bottom of the unit? You are supposed to ALWAYS put cold water in unit after every run. It sounds like you have let it run dry a couple of times, weakening the safety. Could it be?

Thank you -
~Shlomo Savyon
1-800-762-1586
Your Sterilizer expert

Q: We’ve recently noticed what seems to be “pitting” in the bottom surface of the above model that was installed in 6/06 (ser. # 68383). We have followed the appropriate water conditions closely and only use softened water with a pH of 8.1. The unit is grounded electrically and is not cleaned with abrasive pads or cleaners. Any information would be appreciated. Thank you.

A: Try using only vinegar or dish detergent for cleaning. Leave the door open when the autoclave isn’t in use. Empty and wipe down the machine at the end of the day. Confirm your grounding is secure.

Thank you -
~Shlomo Savyon
1-800-762-1586
Your Sterilizer expert

The 2 pressure switches on the sterilizer work as the sensors to control the power supplies to its heating elements. If the steam trap

(click HERE) is working properly, then you need to check these 2 pressure switches. If it isn’t, the steam trap will need to be replaced.

Another possibility is that the temperature gauge may be defective.

This machine control unit is pretty simple, so not too many factors are involved.

Also, remember that the Market Forge temperature setting is lower than a regular sterilizer. Its default temperature settings is 250F instead of 273F.

Thank you -
~Shlomo Savyon
1-800-762-1586
Your Sterilizer expert

The Market Forge chamber is made of aluminum, which is very soft and sensitive to oxygen. Usually after a complete clean, we can see that the chamber’s inside color will get gray after 1 or 2 cycles, but a continuous residue buildup is unlikely.

Because Market Forge sterilizer does not come with a water reservoir, we do not think that residue will result from something inside the machine beforehand.

What we can suggest you do is wash this chamber with water many times to make sure the chamber inside as clean as possible. After that, run some testing cycles again.

Thank you -
~Shlomo Savyon
1-800-762-1586
Your Sterilizer expert

Q: I saw a mention somewhere that sterilizers have a “high elevation accessory/component.” Does Market Forge supply this item?

A: To the best of our knowledge – Market Forge does not have this item for their sterilizers.

Thank you -
~Shlomo Savyon
1-800-762-1586
Your Sterilizer expert

If your sterilizer runs out of water during the cycle, causing steam to blow out, then the problem is most likely caused by the steam trap, which isn’t doing its job. In this case, my recommendation is to just replace the steam trap.

Thank you -
~Shlomo Savyon
1-800-762-1586
Your Sterilizer expert

Q: The sterilizer only reaches 13 psi. When it’s operating, I hear a switch or a valve open and close. This noise comes every 5 minutes during operation.

A: In most cases, the problem is from the steam trap, which opens too much. This will cause the sterilizer to have a hard time building and holding high pressure.

However, in this specific case, the problem might be caused by pressure switch, which is out of calibration. If the pressure switch is in good working condition, the problem may come from the contactors, which is controlled by the pressure switch. Through the contactor, the pressure switch can control the AC power supply to the heating elements. From the description, it sounds like the pressure switch is still working (but possibly not calibrated), because you can still hear a noise periodically. This noise comes from the contactor going ON/OFF.

Usually the 2 contactors work like this:

When the pressure reaches 13.0-13.5 PSI, the contactor for the outer banks of heating elements will turn OFF and stay OFF until the end of the cycle.

When the pressure reaches 15.5 PSI, then the contactor for the inside banks of heating elements will turn OFF. After the pressure goes down to 15.0 PSI, this contactor will turn ON again, so you can hear a noise periodically. For your case, this contactor is most likely not working, or the control signal for this contactor from the Pressure Switch is out of calibration.

Thank you -
~Shlomo Savyon
1-800-762-1586
Your Sterilizer expert

Q: My company has been asked to install a Market Forge STM-E sterilizer. I am looking at a Market Forge 8-1/2″ x 11″ sheet listed as 17-0099-3 for a type “C” with temperature recorder. Per the top view of the sterilizer, what is item “E”? It is not listed as part of the required connections but a site visit revealed a 1/2″ FPT connection.

A: “E” is where the chart recorder connects and the unit’s safety valve is located.

Thank you -
~Shlomo Savyon
1-800-762-1586
Your Sterilizer expert

Q: We have a Market Forge STM-E. When we try to run a cycle, the sterilizer works normally until temperature is reached. Then the low water indicator light comes on and the sterilizer shuts off. After the temperature and pressure go down the chamber still is full of water and we can usually reset using the button. However, it happens again when we try to run it. At first the problem was intermittent, and we could sometimes run a complete cycle, but now it’s doing it every time. Sometimes we can’t even reset it and have to wait until it is significantly cooled down before the reset button will work. How do we fix this?

A: The reason this is happening is because the low water cutoff is faulty. To fix it, you just have to replace that part.Click HERE

Thank you -
~Shlomo Savyon
1-800-762-1586
Your Sterilizer expert

 

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